The scent of hand-poured candles filled the air in the Little Welsh Dresser, one of Llandeilo’s clutch of arts and crafts shops. This vibrant Welsh market town is a creative spot – it’s where the famous Dinefwr wool blankets are woven and boasts many galleries and antique stores – and is a pretty place to wander. Our eyes land on the rows of handmade cards and mugs stamped with Welsh words. One said: Cwtch. Pronounced “kutch”, it has no direct translation into English. “It’s a big, warm hug,” said the shop owner, “but also it’s a feeling, a sense of belonging,” – and a word that would come to define our weekend.
We – I was travelling with my friend, Anna – were here to try out Discover Carmarthenshire’s new “The Sisterhood” breaks that tap into the growing trend of women swapping prosecco-fuelled girlie weekends for trips that focus on new skills and wellbeing experiences. For those wanting pre-curated stays there’s a Sisterhood Sorted section on the website, but groups of any size can create a bespoke trip by selecting west, central or coastal Carmarthenshire, choosing from a list of places to stay (from barns to glamping pods ), and then selecting experiences led by Wild Kin, a collection potters, painters, coastal foragers, horse whisperers, walking guides, makers and massage therapists.
We’d chosen Ardderfin Farmhouse on the outskirts of historic Carmarthen, a rustic stone cottage with a clawfoot bath and huge open fireplace . It reminded us of the cottage in the film The Holiday.
After settling in, we drove 15 minutes into town for dinner. “Carmarthen is still a community of farmers and the Women’s Institute is still massive here,” said Rachel Williams, owner of the New Curiosity – a weekends-only, seasonal-menu restaurant she runs with her husband-chef, Daniel. “Everyone at our tables tends to know each other – my home is your home,” she said, as I tucked in to a perfectly pink Welsh sirloin.
Saturday brought low sun that splayed silhouettes of the skeletal trees across the frosted fields as we wended up into the hills to meet Yoka Kilkelly, AKA the “Dutch potter on the hill”, who runs her Siramik pottery studio out of a converted barn on a sheep farm. Inside, the slate stone walls were spattered with flecks of clay.
We started with wedging – kneading the clay to soften it, make its texture consistent and ensure there are no air bubbles in it. It requires serious heft. “No potter has bingo wings,” smiled Yoka, as we struggled away while she made her clay look as soft as bread dough. We portioned our clay into four, thwacked a lump on to the potter’s wheel and started coaxing it into shape as it span. “A person’s personality shapes their pot,” said Yoka. My clay morphed into coffee cups and Anna’s turned into a bowl, which we later daubed with a glaze. “It’s a mindful practice,” she added. With shards of winter sun spearing through the studio windows and the sensation of earthy clay spinning in my palms, I did feel very present.
In the afternoon, we drove toward Llansteffan for a short walk along the sands of the Tywi estuary. Atop a hill was the crenelated shadow of 800-year-old Llansteffan Castle. The tide had drawn back, leaving a trail of bone-white cockle shells and shallow pools that reflected the pinkening sunset. Anna, a keen birder, was scanning for curlews and egrets, camera at the ready. It’s not often I get to see her in her element.
We returned to Ardderfin Farmhouse to find our next activity waiting. Lowri Johnston is a yoga teacher and organic flower farmer based in nearby Nantgaredig. We lit the fire in the living room and she guided us through a gentle session. Then, fuelled by brownies she’d brought from a local bakery, she taught us to make willow wreaths gilded with ivy, eucalyptus, pine cones and dried dahlias foraged from her own farm, slowly warming the willow first to coax it into a circle.
“I love doing this because it embeds people in the seasons and land,” Lowri said. She told us that the Welsh word for sisterhood is chwaeroliaeth. “It means ‘sisters together.’ In Wales we have a history of women meeting, especially while making food – milking, churning butter, that sort of thing.”
After Lowri left us, Anna and I dined on a gourmet picnic of homemade meatballs in tomato sauce followed by ginger cake with toffee sauce that had been delivered by Wright’s Food. We revived the fire, and sat in deep sofas talking until the wee hours as the embering wood hissed and crackled.
Sunday dawned with rain drifting across the fields. I nudged the car toward Newcastle Emlyn to meet primary school teacher turned jeweller Elen Bowen, who runs silver and gold jewellery making workshops at her home. She only turned her hand to it in 2023 after having twin girls and deciding on a career change. “I thought, heck, I’ll start an Instagram page and see how it goes – and it snowballed!” This year, she was selected to craft the crown for best story writer in the National Eisteddfod – Wales’ largest annual festival celebrating Welsh literature, music and arts.
Anna chose to make a bracelet; I decided on a ring. And with Elen’s guidance, we hammered, soldered and polished, bringing our own personalities to the piece, as we had with the pottery. After, we gathered around the table to share bowlfuls of her homemade cawl – Welsh stew.
By the time we left, and had hugged goodbye every woman we’d met, I thought back to the mug printed with cwtch – how it wasn’t just a hug, but a sense of being gathered in by each of the creators we’d spent time with. It was the perfect word for a weekend crafted together with fun, food and a deeper sense of closeness to each other.
The trip was provided by Discover Carmarthenshire’s Sisterhood Campaign. Ardderfin Farmhouse sleeps 8 adults, from £772 for two nights. Activities (based on a group of 6+) include a half-day pottery workshop with Siramik from £80pp; yoga and wreath-making with Lowri Johnston for £90pp; and a jewellery workshop with Elen Bowen for £130pp, including lunch
