A line in Mark Binelli’s fascinating piece in The New York Times Magazine about Michael Jackson’s estate-led rehabilitation campaign really jumped out at me. Referring to the early ’90s, the period in which the biopic “Michael” ends, Binelli writes, “It was also among the last moments that Jackson looked cool: the white V-neck and the unbuttoned white dress shirt, black pants, hair pulled back.”
What an astute observation. By this point in Jackson’s life, he had already given us his most iconic looks: the Sky Masterson-esque ivory pinstriped suit and cobalt blue socks in the “Smooth Criminal” video; the leather jacket from “Thriller,” as red as pulled taffy; and the black Florsheim loafers worn with sparkly socks, which he pulled out for his inaugural moonwalk in 1983.
It’s this period of Jackson that fashion has long been fixated on it. In images of him from this time, he’s still just the musical magician who vanquished MTV. The allegations of child molestation that would dog him through his later life (and afterlife) haven’t yet appeared. It’s this period that fashion designers have long been selectively fixated on, with little room for his personal life.
In 2017, Supreme sold a series of hoodies and tees showing a bow-tied “Billie Jean”-era MJ. In January 2019, Louis Vuitton, then under the stewardship of Virgil Abloh, created an entire collection inspired by Jackson. Abloh, in an interview before the show, described Jackson as “the most important innovator in men’s wear history,” a plaudit that, even then, came off as too generous.
There were ensembles with characters from 1978’s “The Wiz” (including Jackson’s Scarecrow), a cherry zip jacket owing to “Thriller” and a T-shirt with an airbrushed rendition of some gleaming socks parked in black shoes.
Abloh’s timing was terrible. Eight days later, “Leaving Neverland,” about Jackson’s alleged pedophilia, premiered at Sundance. With the public reminded of the child molesting allegations that trailed the singer’s latter years, his reputation was again upended. After the documentary premiered on HBO in March, Louis Vuitton halted production on items that directly referenced Jackson.
What I had forgotten about this backlash was that it didn’t take hold immediately. Two months after the show, in a March 2019 New Yorker profile of Abloh (who died in 2021), the designer is asked about “Leaving Neverland” and the allegations that Jackson had molested two boys. He said he hadn’t heard of the documentary but that he had been inspired by “the Michael that I thought was universally accepted, the good side, his humanitarian self.” It would take four more days for Vuitton to nix the Jackson goods.
Yet one can see why Abloh might have thought his explanation would fly. Fashion has, after all, always been capable of pushing past a controversy, if the person’s image is indelible enough.
The photo of Jackson in his black loafers, as I’ve seen on infinite mood boards over the years — that’s strong iconography. And now the box office might of “Michael” seems like proof that the singer’s defenders have won in the court of public opinion, even with a new lawsuit against his estate filed by four siblings who knew Jackson as children.
The invitation to the Jackson-inspired Louis Vuitton show was a single white glove coated in chandelier-sparkly rhinestones. I still have mine in storage. It felt important to keep as a token of a luxury house trading on the image of a contentious figure. Today it is really the only existing piece of that collection that is actually tied to the singer. You can buy one on eBay for as much as $3,000.
